THE PERFECT PITSTOP
An Alpine classic, Zum See is one of few mountain restaurants with the power to make me give up an afternoon’s skiing in Zermatt, says Gabriella Le Breton
Zum See is a 350-year-old farming chalet in a hamlet above Zermatt, run for decades by Max and Greti Menning
Zermatt positively spoils for choice when it comes to eating: the ancient town at the foot of the Matterhorn is one of the great Alpine foodie hubs, home to some of the ski world’s finest restaurants.
You can glam up and splash out on Michelin-starred cuisine in one of the four stellar restaurants in town, or strip down to your thermals for L’Assiette Michelin (Michelin Plate) dining at seven mountain restaurants, including Zum See. Introduced in 2018, the Michelin Plate rating recognises restaurants with “quality food”, likely to work up to a star in years to come. Wary of fine dining foams and fuss replacing hearty mountain food, I find reassurance in Michelin’s uncomplicated appraisal of Zum See: “Fresh ingredients, capably prepared: simply a good meal.”
Set in a 350-year-old farming chalet in the sleepy hamlet of Zum See above Zermatt, Zum See has been run for decades by chef patron Max Menning and his wife Greti. Skiers reach the sun-blackened timber and stone chalet by following hand-hewn wooden signs (“Zum See, Max + Greti”) off the No.50 piste into Zermatt from Furi, while walkers can follow a scenic hiking trail up to the restaurant from town.
Don’t bother looking for the lake that Zum See’s name implies it overlooks – it dried up 200 years ago. But views of the hamlet’s wonky old chalets clustered beneath the Matterhorn, preferably enjoyed over lunch on the sunny terrace, more than make up for a lack of water. If it’s not the weather for al fresco dining, snuggle into the cosy, fire-warmed restaurant, whose rough stone, timber and plaster walls are hung with antique Menning family photos and prints by local artists. Constrained by the diminutive size of the ancient chalet, tables are limited, so pre-booking is absolutely essential.
Max and Greti have now largely handed over the reins to their son Markus and his wife Marion but, happily for Zum See regulars, Marcus has mastered his father’s signature dishes and still works with the same small brigade of chefs in the even smaller kitchen.
All the favourites remain: melt-in-the-mouth calf livers with rösti (CHF38), succulent Provençale lamb (CHF40) and dangerously moreish ‘Napoleons Zum See’ – Max’s legendary vanilla cream mille-feuilles slices (CHF8).
In addition to locally reared meats, seafood remains a key element of the menu, with Zürich’s celebrated Bianchi family fishmongers delivering fresh fish daily. Tuna carpaccio drizzled with lemon juice and olive oil (CHF24) is a refreshing starter, while the fish soup (CHF18 for a starter, CH24 for a main) will have you convinced you’re on the shores of the Med.
Finally, don’t overlook the pasta: a vast bowl of feather-light noodles smothered with veal bolognese (CHF28), or porcini mushrooms in a creamy herb sauce (CHF28) will set you up for an afternoon’s skiing, or simply the short ski down to Zermatt after lunch. And, with an excellent wine cellar that champions local wines and offers up a few special occasion bottles, like a double magnum of Tignanello and an Imperial (six litres) of Magari, Zum See simply begs for you to settle in for the day.
CLUB CONCOCTIONS
Pan-fried Calves’ Liver
The recipe for this signature Zum See dish comes from Meredith Erickson’s magical book, Alpine Cooking.
What you need
Mixed herb sauce:
1/3 cup (15g) fresh herb leaves (a mix of marjoram, sage, thyme and rosemary)
1 cup (50g) flat-leaf parsley leaves
½ cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ yellow onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1½ pounds (680g) fresh calves’ liver, cut into thin slices
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
How to make it
To make the herb sauce: in a blender or food processor, combine the herbs and parsley and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the olive oil and continue to pulse, until the consistency looks like pesto. Season, then set aside.
Warm a large cast-iron pan over a medium-high heat. Add the butter, olive oil and onion and sauté until the onion is nicely browned (five to seven minutes). Stir in the garlic and mixed herb sauce and turn the heat to high. Lay the liver slices in the pan, leaving some space between them. Once the slices are nicely browned (one to two minutes), flip them and cook for another minute or two, until the other sides are browned as well. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with rösti.
Recipe from Alpine Cooking