THE PERFECT PITSTOP
Will Robson goes in search of Savoyard haute cuisine – and wines to match – at the rustic but splendid Belliou La Fumée in Les Arcs
A small stone cabin that is worth seeking out...
A small stone cabin, tucked below the road snaking up to Les Arcs 1950 and 2000 has, for more than 30 years, been the destination of choice for those seeking Savoyard haute cuisine and wines to match.
Named after Jack London’s 1912 book Smoke Bellew, Belliou La Fumée has been a constant amidst the steady development of Les Arcs into one of France’s most extensive and charismatic ski resorts. This restaurant is anything but ‘purpose-built’.
Situated at the bottom of the Comborcière chairlift below Arc 1950, Belliou La Fumée is hemmed in by a racing stream and a boulder almost as big as the cabin itself. There is an outdoor terrace that has room for 90, while inside the small space seats 40 on the ground floor and in the basement. The décor is simple and homely: sheepskin-rugged chairs, wood-panelled walls, and an open fire with low-slung beams overhead.
Owner and chef Christophe Sense, and his Cairn terrier Paulo, are in their third year at Belliou La Fumée. Greeting guests warmly at the door, Christophe likes to discuss his recommendations of the day. Sourcing locally and seasonally is his preference for tantalising diners’ palates, rather than set a menu for the season. Yes, the menu includes a burger ‘Le Belliou’, but it's the flavours and flair he brings to his dishes after 40 years of cooking, 15 of them in Michelin-starred restaurants, that keeps Belliou’s most discerning clients coming back for more. The average price inside the restaurant is €50 per head for food, with wine on top; on the terrace food costs around €25 per head.
Christophe incorporates three signature dishes into the menu. The starter is a terrine of foie gras on grilled panettone with candied olives, vanilla and grated black truffle (€22). It manages to be delicate, yet rich and sophisticated at the same time. As a main course, try the simply but beautifully roasted free-range chicken breast with Scots pine bud sauce. It has a pumpkin purée smoother than Jean Dujardin. To finish: a pudding that features yet more black truffle and panettone, with custard and a drizzle of olive oil from the Douro region of Portugal.
For younger skiers, the menu offers a main course and pudding for €20, plus a fruit squash. The terrace menu is aimed at those less inclined to settle into a bottle of Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne Saint-Joseph 2016 (€25), offering platters of smoked salmon, trout and tuna tataki (€24) and, of course, local cheese and charcuterie platters (€19.50). The restaurant is open for evening dining Wednesday to Friday, only by booking in advance, but it includes a driver to collect and return you home. In keeping with the times, Christophe also offers a ‘click and collect’ service for those preferring not to spend time in the restaurant.
Belliou La Fumée is well worth seeking out and, if you’re staying, for example, in VIP Ski’s new Bear Lodge chalet at Arc 1950, it’s but the gentlest of runs down to the inviting old-world charm of one of Les Arcs’ finest restaurants.
CLUB CONCOCTIONS
BELLIOU LA FUMÉE BRAISED CHICKEN BREAST WITH PUMPKIN
WHAT YOU NEED
- 1 pumpkin/squash
- 1 courgette
- 1 red pepper
- 1 small onion
- 100g sugar
- 50ml water
- 10cl white wine vinegar
- ½ litre veal stock
- 10 Scots pine buds
- Six skinless chicken breasts
- 10cl olive oil
- 250g butter
- salt and pepper
HOW TO MAKE IT
Dice and boil the pumpkin; drain and set it aside. Finely dice the courgette, pepper and onion, then cook without browning.
Make a caramel by heating the sugar and water in a saucepan, then add the vinegar, veal stock and pine buds, cooking for
10 minutes. Set aside.
Braise the chicken breasts in a sauté pan with 100g of butter, salt and pepper.
Melt the rest of the butter, add the pumpkin and whisk vigorously to obtain a smooth, salt and peppered purée. Finish with chopped chives and pea shoots.
Serve and enjoy!