THE PERFECT PITSTOP
A decade after first opening, La Table du Panoramic modestly holds the title of the world’s highest Michelin-starred restaurant. A year on from the award, the Ski Club’s Henry John heads up to the top of Tignes to find out more
Rustic charm meets Michelin-starred dining
The Bouvier family are big players in the contemporary Savoyarde culinary scene; Clément, current head chef at La Table du Panoramic, is also in charge of Ursus in Tignes Val Claret; his sister is restauranteur Emma, who, along with husband and chef Hugo Colombo, run La Table d’Jeanne, welcoming guests into Val Claret on the main road up from Le Lac.
Overseeing it all is their father, Jean-Michel, who’s culinary ideas and principles hold a strong influence across all three locations. La Table du Panoramic is perched over Tignes Val Claret at 3,032m, making it the highest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. While a Saharan dust storm meant the views did not necessarily live up to the restaurant’s name during our visit, Clément’s menu did not disappoint.
From the moment you enter the restaurant you’re struck by the intimate setting, as you pass a cosy bar area with a roaring fire and are offered slippers to replace your ski boots. The dining room has space for around 100 patrons, but despite the high-ceilinged, traditional chateau design conversation is not lost around your table and the hubbub of other diners is reduced to a minimum.
Panoramic’s simple menu marries local ingredients with simple cooking techniques; most of the menu of main dishes are cooked on a simple open wood fire, and the majority of the ingredients (bar the Angus steaks) are sourced from within 100km of Tignes.
Caramelised pigeon is accompanied by puréed potato and salad; the caramelisation from the open fire pairs perfectly with the tender cooked pigeon, and the pink centre rivals the puréed potato for smoothness. Alternatively, fresh pasta in a light sauce is complemented by the earthiness of black truffle – as one of the only vegetarian options on an otherwise meat-heavy menu, this was an exceptional blend.
Clément’s dress-down style – jeans and a shirt with rolled up sleeves – is one of several contrarian elements he has blended into the set-up of Panoramic. Perhaps the sweetest example of this is the dessert buffet, catching your eye as you first enter the dining room and, in Clément’s own words, so different from the traditional à la carte-style French cuisine usually found in Michelin-starred restaurants. Here, diners can help themselves to slices of picture-perfect cakes, nut- or berry-laden tarts, and melt-in-your-mouth cookies. From perfectly puffed pastry to light and fluffy mousses, choose one slice for €12 or indulge in three for €22.
Lunch is served in two sittings at 12pm and 2pm, with reservations recommended. Panoramic is not normally open for dinner, in part due to its unique setting, and in part due to Clément and Jean-Michel splitting their time between here and Ursus. Selected Thursday evenings are the exception, where you can enjoy a specially curated menu followed by a guided torch-lit ski down under the Lanches chairlift – the funicular remains at hand for those who don’t fancy the challenge of skiing the red at night!
A main course will set diners back around €50 before any side dishes are added. For those keen to sample the Bouvier family’s fare without loosing valuable ski time to a long sit-down lunch, there is a self-service area available next to the restaurant that offers the chance to sample fresh pasta and homemade pizzas at prices equivalent to other eateries across Tignes – Val d'Isère.
There is also an outdoor snack-bar offering coffee and cake to enjoy on the outdoor terrace, with its front-row views of the Grand Motte and Mont Blanc.
CLUB CONCOCTIONS
FIVE-INGREDIENT BLACK TRUFFEL PASTA
WHAT YOU NEED
- 250g pasta
- 50g parmesan cheese
- 5 tbsp salted butter
- 30g fresh black truffle
- fresh parsley
- salt and pepper to taste
HOW TO MAKE IT
Bring a large pan of water to the boil, salt it generously (1 tbsp) and then cook the pasta until al dente. This usually takes one minute less than the packet suggests. Meanwhile, grate the parmesan and set to one side.
Add the butter to a heavy based skillet and let it melt over a low heat. Once the butter has melted, grate in about ¾ of the black truffle. Stir well and then remove from the heat. Reserve half a cup of the pasta cooking water and then drain the pasta.
Stir the pasta into the butter, along with a ¼ cup of the reserved water. Stir gently over a low heat until everything is combined. Add more water if it starts to feel sticky.
Add the parmesan and serve immediately with fresh parsley garnish and more black truffle.
Serve and enjoy!