THE PERFECT PITSTOP
Abigail Butcher dines in style at the historic Chalet Etoile in Cervinia, where the cuisine is a delightful mix of Italian and Swedish, with a strong Asiatic influence
Mountainside dining doesn’t get any better than this…
This historic restaurant is a must-visit for anyone skiing in Cervinia or Zermatt. Located at 2750m in Cervinia’s Plan Maison sector, and accessible via blue pistes numbers 6 and 26, it’s a proper family business.
Local man Cesare Frassy built the restaurant in 1974. To begin with there was no electricity – Cesare would simply go up with a backpack and make sandwiches. His now-wife Ulla, who is Chalet Etoile’s esteemed head chef, arrived from Sweden to work for a winter season in the 1980s. They fell in love and she stayed, learning to cook with other chefs.
Today, the couple’s son and daughter Kalle and Caroline, and their families, are involved, too. Kalle takes care of the wine, while his girlfriend Hanna is the restaurant’s pastry chef. Caroline works the floor and manages the bookings, while her chef-husband Alessandro works in the kitchen with Ulla, introducing new dishes.
The menu is Italian-Swedish with a strong Asiatic influence (Caroline and Alessandro run seven restaurants in Bali during the summer months) and includes local, traditional foods – so you’ll find a mix of fish, meat and the traditional meals of the region, plus fabulous local wine. The bestsellers are reindeer ravioli, lobster and king crab.
Reservations are recommended – Chalet Etoile has earned itself a reputation for being one of the best mountain restaurants on the Italian side, and as such books up well in advance during busy periods. That being said, the service is slick, so don’t be put off by the sight of a queue or plentiful diners.
During high season Caroline suggests booking as much as three or four weeks in advance. “But if you like to ski all morning and have a late lunch at 2-3pm then it’s easy to get a table,” she says. In quieter periods, such as January, you can book on the day.
Inside, the restaurant seats 120 (though there might be fewer this winter due to Covid) and there is a separate indoor bar area seating around 50 for which you cannot book – so it is always worth checking on a whim if there is space. The self-service bar offers a cheaper, reduced menu of sandwiches, pasta dishes and desserts. Caroline says that this winter they may also serve a daily special for skiers. Outside the large, sunny terrace – complete with views of the Matterhorn – seats 250 people.
At night, Chalet Etoile is open for a private dining experience on request. The restaurant is decorated with candles and guests are collected by Ski-Doos. The evening starts with an aperitivo with finger food followed by a set menu decided with the customers, Italian wine, with fireworks at the end. Does mountainside dining get any better than that? We think not…
CLUB CONCOCTIONS
REINDEER RAVIOLI
SERVES 4-6
WHAT YOU NEED
1 carrot
1 onion
2 sprigs of rosemary
Olive oil
500g minced reindeer (or venison)
Lard (to taste)
Half a glass of red wine
Splash of port
500g pasta (small dried ravioli if available or linguine, etc.)
HOW TO MAKE IT
Sautée the carrots, onions and rosemary in a pan with olive oil.
After a few minutes add the minced reindeer meat and some extra lard.
Keep it cooking for at least one hour.
Add salt, pepper and half a glass of red wine.
Keep simmering until the wine has evaporated. Add a splash of port and taste to see if you need to add more salt or pepper.
Boil the water for the ravioli or pasta.
Add a pinch of salt to the water and cook the ravioli/pasta according to instructions.
Drain and add to the pan with the sauce. Serve (with an optional garnish of wild berries, as pictured) and enjoy!