THE PERFECT PITSTOP
Abigail Butcher chats with Laurent Royer, owner-operator of Chez Dany in Verbier, about the restaurant that’s become “part of the DNA of Verbier”
There’s no shortage of fabulous places to eat in the Swiss resort of Verbier, as well known for its royal clientele as it is for hosting the finals of the Freeride World Tour. Set in the hamlet of Clambin, just 15 minutes’ walk from the centre of town, Chez Dany is one of the resort’s culinary institutions.
With its large south-facing terrace, Chez Dany is popular with summer hikers and romantics seeking a memorable spot for sunset dinners. In winter, the restaurant is ski-in and ski-out only, following a clearly signposted route through the trees from Les Ruinettes to Mèdran, which merely adds to its charm.
Laurent Royer took ownership of Chez Dany five years ago and describes it as “part of the DNA of Verbier”. Recognising the restaurant’s incredible legacy, he says that “we are finding our groove”, perpetuating it as the perfect pitstop for the next generation.
Previous owners have served pasta and Swiss classics and, while the latter remain on the menu (“cheese is a constant”, says Laurent, acknowledging some will always want a croûte made with local cheese) his menu has a modern, more ambitious twist.
Main courses include bone marrow croquettes with confits shallots (CHF52); fresh crab taglioni with garlic and slow-roasted tomatoes (CHF32); and slow-cooked pork belly ribs with smoked chilli and maple syrup served with fennel and grapefruit salad (CHF34) — all exquisitely presented. Cheesy Classics include a croute complète (oven-roasted cheese and wine on bread with ham and a fried egg; CHF28) and a selection of cheese fondues (from CHF27).
Chez Dany also has a children’s menu (chicken and chips, fish cakes and spaghetti meatballs at CHF16 each) and offers a selection of meats cooked on a pierrade (hot stone) for evening meals (from CHF45).
“We change our menu every season,” says Laurent. “Our clients are sporty but want high-quality products and fresh, local food.
“We wanted a friendly, relaxed atmosphere and that’s how we serve — Chez Dany is for everyone, and not at all exclusive. You never know who you’re going to be sitting next to. People are disguised when they’re skiing, and while the food is high quality the experience is not high-end; we just put in a lot of love.”
Laurent takes pride in serving locally sourced food wherever possible and practical for a restaurant serving 500 meals a sitting. Cheese, for example, is supplied by world-renowned raclette ambassador Eddy Baillifard, from across the valley in Bruson.
While the terrace seats up to 150, the cosy wooden cabin interior seats just 60, so booking is essential (and taken up to six months in advance). That said, the team always reserves a small portion of the restaurant for walk-ins, so it’s worth trying your luck and checking in with them early in the day. The restaurant operates a snowcat to bring diners up the mountain for evening meals, after which you can toboggan back down if you’re brave enough. Just be sure to wrap up warm and don’t drink too much delicious local Valaisan wine.
HOW TO MAKE IT
Start the truffle emulsion by cutting the butter into small cubes and returning to the fridge. Put 200ml of stock (homemade, ideally) in a saucepan, bring to the boil, gradually adding 60g butter, beating briskly with a whisk.
When the butter has melted, remove from heat and beat mixture energetically. Add the truffle oil, parmesan and grated fresh truffle.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, season with salt and cook the pasta as per instructions, then drain.
In a separate pan, gently warm the truffle emulsion then add the pasta ensuring it is well coated.
Serve with a sprinkle of chopped chives and shavings of a hard cheese like parmesan or pecorino and fresh truffle.