JANE BILLINGTON
MY TOP FIVE
five favourite lesser-known spots in the Dolomites for awesome views, fabulous food and history
1.Cinque Torri (Five Towers) Named after its famous rock formation, consisting of five towers, this tiny but spectacular ski area lies between Cortina d’Ampezzo and Alta Badia and is home to amazing views across to the Civetta ski area and Marmolada glacier. Some of the best vistas are from the terrace of Rifugio Averau, famous for its daily ‘tris’ (pronounced treese), which is a dish made with three different pastas. From here you can ski across to the Falzareggo chair or back down to the resort base and, conditions allowing, via a lovely off-piste run between the rocks skiers’ left of the top run.
2.Corvara This is the setting-off point for many beautiful ski areas in the Dolomites, including the famous Sella Ronda ski circuit, a kind of a ski carousel around the Sella massif with a mighty 500km of slopes to explore and awe-inspiring views all the way round. When you return to Corvara at the end of the circuit, stop by the Stüa dal Tê tea room, located just down from the Col Alto lift, for your choice of fresh-leaf tea, the world’s best apfelstrudel and a chance to trip over their gorgeous mountain dog on the way to the loo! Drift home watching the evening sun turn the Dolomites a glorious pink, a famous phenomenon caused by the coral contained in the rock.
3.Lagazuoi (The Hidden Valley) This valley can only be accessed via the steep Falzarego cable car, which is filled with photos from the First World War and climbs up a rock face peppered with tunnels. At the top enjoy the fabulous 360-degree panorama – it doesn’t get much better. It is sobering to think that this whole area was part of the First World War fighting front between Austro-Hungary and Italy: four interminable winters of inadequate clothing and food, frostbite and disease spent in tunnels dug into the limestone of the Dolomites at incredible altitude. The ski down the beautiful Lagazuoi run, passing waterfalls and the tiny Austro-Hungarian memorial chapel to Scottoni, is filled with a sense of history. A stop at Rifugio Scotoni for their homemade lamponi (raspberry) grappa is a must. Afterwards there is a great schuss down to the valley floor, and – conditions allowing – ponies that will tow you round to the Armentarola lift into the Alta Badia.
4.La Crusc (The Cross) This is a small and charming ski area at the edge of the Alta Badia region. The skiing is an easy cruise on the way to La Crusc, from La Villa, apart from the opportunity to whizz down the race run, which is narrow and steep in sections. The Unesco World Heritage Site chapel of La Crusc, set beneath the majestic Mt Sasso di Santa Croce, is well worth a visit. It dates back to the 15th century and is enfolded in great cliffs of rock; inside, there is an altar in which numerous relicts of Saints are kept. There is a great restaurant below La Crusc called Ütia Nagler, which has good food and live music.
5.Seceda This is one of the most beautiful and iconic locations in the Dolomites. It has a more Austrian feel than some of the other resorts, but still offers that classic Italian welcome. A ski to Seceda and speedy run down the 10.5km 'Longia' to Ortisei is always good fun, plus you get tree-filled runs back down to Santa Cristina and Plan de Gralba on the Sella Ronda afterwards. Rifugio Seceda, located at the top of the lift back from Ortisei, is another great eatery with fabulous views back to the Sella Ronda.
Jane made her first turns… at the age of 16, on 205cm epoxy skis with cable bindings and leather lace-up boots.
She passed the (then) Reps’ course… in 1993 and has Repped or Led every year since (apart from 2020!). She says: “I almost failed the course, as I was learning to breakdance in Tignes instead of attending evening sessions. Luckily, I was given the benefit of the doubt and sent to Grindelwald for a month and became Rep of the Year.”
Her favourite skiing is… with good friends and lots of laughter.
Her favourite après spot is… the Nederhutte in Obergurgl.
Her tipple of choice is… a really good gin and tonic.
