REP RESORT REPORT
Wengen, Switzerland
Wengen, one of three resorts in Switzerland’s Jungfrau Region ski area, is a golden Alpine oldie, yet is sometimes overlooked in favour of younger, flashier resorts. We chatted to Ski Club Rep Mark Thomas to get the scoop on this venerable destination.
Says Mark: “Though many resorts might justifiably claim the honour, Wengen is, for some, the home of downhill skiing. The reasons are numerous – historic, geographic and sporting to name but a few.
Wengen sits on a sunny mountain shelf in the heart of the Jungfrau region. Neighbouring resorts Mürren and Grindelwald are easily accessible via train and gondola, so skiers have their pick of the best terrain and snow. Some of Wengen’s skiing area is shared with Grindelwald, overlooked by the north face of the mighty Eiger. It’s possible to travel by train through the Eiger to the highest railway station in Europe, the Jungfraujoch, which is a perfect starting point for ski tourers to explore Europe’s largest glacier, the Aletsch.
The oldest, longest and fastest downhill ski race in the FIS World Cup calendar takes place every January in Wengen on the Lauberhorn, leading the resort atmosphere to step up a gear and making hotel rooms and dinner reservations hard to find. Skiing the Lauberhorn course in the weeks after the race is a real highlight – there’s a photo point by the start hut and a slalom course is set daily, so everyone can have a picture of themselves emulating their heroes!
There are also “speed check” cameras (of the non-incriminating sort) on cordoned-off sections of piste 21 under the Arven lift and the Hanneggschuss on the Lauberhorn, where some Club members have clocked over 100 km/h. The resort further arranges a “race night” on Thursdays in February where skiers can take part in a floodlit slalom, like the World Cup in Adelboden.
Wengen is extremely welcoming to British skiers and several loyal Club members have been visiting for years. It is a family-oriented resort with a traditional Swiss feel and it’s almost completely traffic free. The Swiss Ski School has an excellent reputation and friendly English-speaking instructors (many of them are actually British).
Wengen is an excellent place to learn to ski – once the basics have been mastered on the village nursery slope there are many easy runs accessible from the top of the warm, comfortable trains, which run frequently from the village up to Kleine Scheidegg and back.
Intermediates will delight in Wengen’s balance of high-alpine and tree-lined runs on the Männlichen and Lauberhorn slopes, some of them thigh-burningly long.
Day trips out to Grindelwald’s First slopes and to Mürren, also famous for James Bond’s exploits in the film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service add to the variety.
When it snows there are acres of powder to be enjoyed with gradients of all types, from meadows above Grund to jaw-tightening steeps, accessible by traversing from the top of the Eigernordwand chair or from the back of the Lauberhorn.
MEET THE REP…with Mark Thomas
I learned to ski more than 50 years ago, on a school trip in Bormio, Italy. Since then I’ve been fortunate enough to ski across the Alps, both coasts of America and the Rockies. My only regret is that 45 of those years went by before discovering the Ski Club!
Since joining the Club, I’ve spent most of a season exploring the Tarentaise, enjoyed great Freshtracks holidays, and skied extensively in Zermatt, Cervinia and the Four Valleys.
I enjoy every aspect and style of downhill skiing – from cruisey blues and reds through jaw-dropping blacks to heart-pumping moguls and waist-burying powder. But, more than anything else, skiing is for me a social sport, so there’s nothing I like more than making new friends and enjoying convivial company while finding new places to ski.
I applied to become a Rep in 2018 because it seemed a great way to do more of what I enjoy most.
I love staying at Wengen’s Falken Hotel, with its historic vibe, family atmosphere, courteous staff and delicious food. Rocks Bar is a great place to have a beer and watch sports after a hard day’s skiing. The Sunstar Hotel offers a slightly more relaxed feel and the perfect spot to unwind with members at the Ski Club’s social hour.
The Wengen Tourist Office posts a weekly diary online, listing activities and events like live music evenings at the Sunstar and Maya Caprice Hotels.
Both the Wengen and the Jungfrau resorts are blessed with numerous excellent mountain restaurants. Some favourites include the cosy Jägerstübli on piste 21 down to Grund; the Berghaus Grindelwaldblick at Kleine Scheidegg with its wonderful views of the Eiger; and the rustic Vorsass-Stuba on Piste 3 below Holenstein.
Meet up with Mark and Club Members in the Jungfrau Region resorts.