SKI & SPA
Surely the ultimate way to relax in the mountains after a hard day’s skiing…
WORDS NICOLA ISEARD
Some people go mad for a spa. Me? Sure, I enjoy a couple laps in a pool, and who doesn’t like the heat of a sauna after a day skiing in sub-zero temperatures? But honestly, half and hour and I’m usually done. Usually.
I have been floating in this infinity pool for so long my hands are shrivelled, my heart rate has slowed to almost a stop, and I have lost all sense of time. The reason for this is threefold: first, the water temperature is divine – heated to a balmy 36˚C. Second, there is hardly anyone here, my husband and I have the pool almost to ourselves. Third, the view. The pool is outdoors on a raised terrace and in front of me is an insane panorama spanning the peaks of the Aiguilles across to Mont Blanc and the Bossons Glacier. It is mesmerising, and can I assure you is best enjoyed from one of the in-pool recliners that has gentle water jets that shoot right for those achey back muscles.
I’m in the QC Terme spa in Chamonix. Located a short walk from the town centre, it opened in December 2018 and is the creation of Italian company QC Terme. The Italian influence is strong – the styling and décor is ‘molto elegante’: all marble floors, comfy sofas and log fires – a world away from some of those spas that can feel a little clinical.
The QC Terme has been well-received in Chamonix, especially during the ski season – it turns out that people who enjoy getting rad in the big mountains by day aren't averse to a little pampering by night.
And the pampering is strong here – while the outside pool is undoubtably the main attraction, the 3,000m2 centre also features whirlpools, bio-saunas, hammams, a salt room, multiple relaxation lounges, even a Kneipp path. Favourite indoor feature? The sauna lined with old wooden skis. Why not, right? The waterfall room gives a wicked shoulder massage too.
Apparently all this lounging, floating, massaging and steaming can work up rather an appetite. We don our complimentary robes and slippers and head for the restaurant. QC Terme spa takes its sustenance as serious as its soaking – there is an impressive array of warm and cold dishes and wines. (You can pre-book lunch on arrival for an allotted time slot, while complimentary wine and nibbles are served daily at 5:30pm.) The tables are aligned on the sunny terrace in front of the panorama for more Mont Blanc gawping on warmer days.
As we took our places in the outdoor pool recliners for one last soak, the sun was just lowering behind the Aiguilles, lighting the small nature reserve and lake below in a pleasant glow. I realise I am unlikely to ever visit a spa again without enquiring what view they have outside. This one is special.
FOUR MORE MUST-VISIT SKI-SPAS
Six Senses Crans-Montana, Switzerland
All eyes are on the Valais for the much-anticipated opening of the new Six Senses Crans-Montana resort, opening next winter. Located directly on the slopes, there will be 47 guest rooms and suites (alongside some residential units), plus a huge spa spanning 2,000 square metres. It will feature a gym, fitness studio, swimming pool, suspended relaxation area and a terrace with epic views. The spa will focus on alpine therapies and treatments, and there will also be a dedicated area for children and teen treatments. That’s next year’s family ski holiday sorted… Prices TBC.
QC Terme Bagni Nuovi, Bormio, Italy
Another top-notch spa from the QC Terme group, this time in the Italian resort of Bormio. It is part of the Grand Hotel dei Bagni Nuovi (but you needn't be a guest to visit the spa). You get the same epic mountain views at its Chamonix sister, this time from an outdoor infinity pool set in a sunny garden that draws water from ancient thermal waters that have been flowing for 2,000 years. There is also a myriad of saunas, hot tubs, waterfalls and relaxation rooms – in fact, there are over 30 different spa services to dip your toes into. Ideal after a day exploring Bormio’s pitchy pistes. Day entrance from €58.
Le Grand Spa Thermal, Brides les Bains, France
It is the 3 Vallées resort that attracts as many spa goers as it does skiers. Brides-les-Bains’ famous thermal spa waters, long recognised for their beneficial effects, is best sampled at the Grand Spa Thermal. Located in the heart of town, it underwent a huge €17 million renovation a few years ago, transforming it into one of the best spas in the Savoie. The aquatic area is super impressive, with swimming lanes, an aqua-fitness pool, ‘fun’ pool, Jacuzzis, ‘bubble beds’, underwater jets, even an underwater circuit. Out of the water, a 55m2 terrace gives guests a fantastic view over the surrounding peaks. Day entrance from €30.
Aqua Dome Thermal Spa, Sölden, Austria
This one gets the prize for the most daring design – it's a futuristic-looking water and sauna world. Located a short drive from Sölden, the ultra-modern 2,000m2 spa features two seemingly levitating bowl-shaped pools, set among landscaped gardens that are surrounded by 3,000m peaks. There are more pools housed in the glass dome, and the thermal waters, sourced from a reservoir located at a depth of 1,865m, are a blissful 40°C. Austrians love their saunas, and here you’ll fine no less than seven of them, including a Finnish sauna with herbs from the Otzal. Mmmm, breathe that goodness in… Day entrance from €42.
Factfile
Day entrance prices change according to the season and the demand; expect to pay around €40-65 per person. Buffet lunch costs €30. Massage treatments from €55. For more details visit qcterme.com/en/chamonix-mont-blanc/qc-terme-chamonix